Dun Cow Inn  

A long, low, quietly convivial pub with satisfying food even.

The Dun Cow, is marketed as a regular haunt of Tony Blair as well as being the place where he and Cherie took George and Laura Bush to lunch in 2003. With more than 1,000 police on duty, the President ate fish and chips with mushy peas, as 300 peace protesters chanted “Gan yem”, dialect for “Go home!”

The long, low, quietly convivial pub has six bedrooms and a warren of traditional-style bars and candlelit dining rooms, with just the barest hint of horse brasses.

My room, with its exposed beams, antique-style furniture and hunting prints (potential controversy there), had a cosy, cottage-like feel. It was well lit, with a trim lavatory and shower room (no bath) and a fine view of the local youth congregating outside the Chinese takeaway. Music and conversation from downstairs were intrusive in the early evening, but the noise subsided after dinner.

And that’s the point about the Dun Cow: the food, which is so satisfying that several fellow diners were totally absorbed by their meals. The menu is strong on steaks, fish and seafood (sea bass in olive oil with roast tomato; tagliatelle with mussels).

I followed ordered fish and chips. They were superb: firm, stocky chips and a good foot of moist, crisply-battered Whitby cod draped across the plate. In a lifetime of ill-advised fish-and-chipping, I’ve never eaten better.

Bottom line: B&B doubles £69.50 (£60 single).

Sampling the fare: starters about £5; mains £8–£16.

Access all areas: No wheelchair-friendly rooms.

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