EDINBURGH.

On a hill below Victoria Terrace south of the city centre in a colourful area of town. A small-ish one room bar with the bar half way down on the right. 11 handpumps serve seven different ales including: Tomintoul Black Gold; Dent Aviator; Duchars IPA; Broughton IPA and Malcoms Golden Vale. No swan necks here, but good old fashioned sparklers. Seating is small leaning rails in front of a padded bench on the left. A real fireplace (gas effect fire) takes up the length of the bar except for a tables and chairs in each window either side of the door (sky TV above). There are other tables and chairs, but not many. A painted wooden floor and high bar gives a dwarfing effect. The walls are decked out in old brewery mirrors and other ephemera. the ceiling is Victorian - and so are the toilets, literally! The large wooden bar back contains more whiskies than I've ever seen. Good access for disabled. No real food served, but hot snacks available sometimes. No accommodation here, but this is Edinburgh after all so there are plenty of hotels, not much B&B in the centre. Try:  Or Castle View Guest House, 30 Castle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 3HT, 0131 226 5784, Single £25, double £40 per room per night.

The Ensign Ewart is one of the finest pubs in Edinburgh. It is situated at the top of The Lawnmarket in Edinburgh's old town. It is also the nearest pub to Edinburgh Castle. It forms part of a building called Milne's Court, which dates back to 1690. It is believed that there has been a pub on this site since that date and probably even before. The pub is named after Ensign Charles Ewart, "The Hero of the Battle of Waterloo", who captured the French standard, which was in the shape of an Eagle. Thus the symbol of the pub is an Eagle! Food is served all day for the hungry traveler, prices range from £3 to £6. There is also a good range of bar snacks and light meals in the evening. There is live folk music in the pub on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. The pub has a large selection of Malt Whisky, including Highland, Lowland,Island and Speyside whiskies. It is recommend that you try the Macallan 10 Year Old! There is also a regular 10 Year Old and a cask strength Macallan!! The pub concentrates on selling a range of good quality cask conditioned real ales. There are three regular beers, as well as a guest beer. Beers on at the time were: Deuchars IPA, Caledonian 80/- and Orkney Dark Island. The beer is hand pumped up from the cellar.

Another of the JD Wetherspoon bank conversions with high ceilings and colonnades. Steps up into the pub are through two columns leading to a large bar (separate entrance for disabled) where you can find service at along the left wall almost the full length of the room. A raised drinking area to the left provides screened seating for the romantic and out towards the exit are two no-smoking rooms where you can breath easy. In these rooms you'll find books and sensible seating. Toilets are downstairs though there is a disabled toilet upstairs. Good friendly service and four guest ales on at the time: Tomintoul Black Gold and Tomintoul Lairds Ale, Merriman Old Fart; Archers Village Bitter. Close to the station, about 5 minutes and in the Saturday night drinking circuit threes treets up from the high street. No accommodation here but try: Aaron Guest House, 16 Hartington Gardens, Edinburgh, EH10 4LD (0131) 229 6459. Prices single £20, double £40 per room per night.

Other Hotels.

http://www.special-edinburgh-hotels.com